Your lawn isn't a one-time fix. It's the same crew on the same day every week, with the right thing done in the right month: pre-emergent before crabgrass, aeration when the soil is still warm, leaves gone before the snow.
Start any month and the plan picks up right where the season is.
Every plan gets the same crew on the same weekday, a text the morning of, and a gate photo when we leave. The difference is how much of the calendar we take on.
For the homeowner who handles the feeding and beds but wants Saturday back.
The plan the calendar above is built around. Thick, dark, mostly weed-free turf by year two.
For larger lots or anyone who wants the whole property kept, not just the grass.
No prices online on purpose A ¼-acre corner lot and a ¾-acre lot with beds are different jobs. Send the address and we'll quote it properly, usually the same day.
Two quick choices. The recommendation carries straight into your request so the office knows what to quote.
Not sure of the lot size? Your county assessor listing shows it, or just send the address and we'll look it up.
Weekly Mow
Weekly Mow fits a lot under ¼ acre with no extras: mow, edge, trim, blow, weekly April through October.
Use this in my requestPre-fills the form. You can change anything before you send.
A good mow is a routine. Here's ours, so you know exactly what "done" means before the truck pulls away.
Blades sharpened weekly, height set at 3 to 3.5 inches for Indiana cool-season turf. We alternate the pattern so the grass never leans one way.
A clean vertical edge along the driveway, walks, and curb. It's the detail that makes a lawn look kept from the street.
String trimmer around the fence, mailbox, beds, and anything the mower can't reach, angled so we don't scalp the turf or scar the bark.
Drive, walks, and patio cleared. Clippings go back onto the lawn where they feed it, never into the street or the storm drain.
Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue, the turf on nearly every yard around here, do their real work when it's cool. The calendar below is what we actually do, and why the timing matters more than the product.
March · April · May
Crabgrass germinates once soil holds around 55° for a few days, usually early to mid April here. Pre-emergent has to be down before that, so we watch soil temps, not the calendar. When the forsythia blooms, it's time. A split second application about eight weeks later carries the barrier through summer.
First cut a touch shorter to clear winter debris, then straight up to 3 inches. A light spring feed, not a heavy one; too much nitrogen in April means fast, weak growth that suffers in July.
Dandelion and clover get spot-treated in May while they're actively growing. Whole-lawn blanket spraying is rarely needed on a lawn we're already feeding.
June · July · August
Japanese beetles lay eggs in July; grubs hatch and feed on roots in August. Preventive product applied in June stops them before damage shows. If you see brown patches that lift like carpet in late summer, that's grubs, and by then it's a curative treatment plus fall repair.
We raise the deck to 3.5 inches in the heat. Taller grass shades its own roots and crowds out crabgrass. If you irrigate, about an inch a week, early morning, in one or two long soaks beats a daily sprinkle.
In a dry August the grass may not need cutting. We'll text and skip rather than mow dust and charge you for it.
September · October · November
Warm soil, cool nights, fewer weeds competing: fall is when new seed actually takes. We core-aerate to relieve compaction, then overseed with a tall fescue and bluegrass blend suited to your sun. Keep it damp for two to three weeks and you'll see it fill in before frost.
September feed for recovery, then the winterizer around late October or early November. This last one is the feeding that matters most; it's what greens up first in March.
Leaves left through winter smother turf and invite snow mold. We clear them in October and November, then take the final cut down to about 2.5 inches before the ground freezes.
An honest note: if a lawn is more weeds than grass, spraying all summer won't fix it. We'll tell you so and recommend a fall renovation instead: kill off, aerate heavily, seed, and start clean next spring. It costs less than a season of fighting it.
Not everything needs a weekly crew. These are the jobs we do once, scheduled for the month they should happen.
Mulch and cleanups are quoted from a photo or a quick walk. Pick "Mulch / beds" or "Cleanup" in the request form.
Routes run north and west out of the 465 loop. Keeping the map small is how the same crew shows up on the same day every week instead of whenever the schedule allows.
Broad Ripple, Meridian-Kessler, Nora, Castleton, and Eagle Creek are all on a route. Just outside? Send the address and we'll tell you honestly.
Prefer to type it out? Use Chat / text us in the corner. Prefer a voice? (317) 555-0177